(i)
Use tracking patches to determine where traps may be used most
effectively.
(j)
Camouflage traps with dust or torn paper if rats appear to be circling
around them.
(k) On pipes, wire the trap horizontally by running a wire around the pipe
and under the trigger pan.
(l) Don't "ring" a rat hole or "line" a run with traps. Two at each hole or
one at each end of a run are enough.
(4) Cage traps have an entrance chamber and a bait chamber with an
opening into which a rat can go, but by which it cannot return. Cage traps occasionally
have to be complete covered except for the rat entrance. Another type of cage trap
consists of a wooden box open at one or both ends, having one or two doors, and
closed by a lever, which is fastened to a trigger. These are similar to rabbit traps, and
catch animals through the use of baits. The trigger may hold the bait or it may be a wire
or treadle on which the rat walks inside the box (see figure 3-4).
Figure 3-4. Box trap.
(5) Glue boards have characteristics of both the snap trap and the cage trap.
These traps can be placed directly in the run and can be used baited or unbaited.
Rodents are trapped live and, if traps are inspected daily, ectoparasite control may not
be necessary prior to initiating a trapping program. Sticky traps must be inspected
frequently to ensure that they have not become wet or covered with dust thus rendering
them ineffective. Ready-to-use traps come in two sizes. One is used for rats and the
other for mice. Traps can be made by coating cardboard or similar material with
commercially available stick-em type glues (see figure 3-5).
MD0172
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